Norfolk roadie - The Fine City
- GeographySurf
- Apr 5, 2024
- 5 min read
My housemate leant heavily into the frame of the doorway with a slump that screamed ‘I couldn’t care less’ as I explained my plans for a short, sweet road trip along the Norfolk coastline.
‘I swear there’s nothing in Norfolk, right? Flat as a pancake?’ He scratched his head, confused at the prospect of exploring East Anglia.
Whenever I speak to my twenty-something pals about Norfolk, they can’t seem to understand my love for this little corner of our country. To them, it stretches a million miles away from civilization (aka London) with a stale selection of slot machines and flat plains of farmer’s fields as far as the eye can see. Nothing of interest to an adventurous soul, surely? Wrong.
My connection to the county grew from the early stages of my teaching career, where I completed a PGCE at the University of East Anglia. Through covid, Norfolk gifted me with a lot of quietly beautiful treasures. Three years on, and I still love the place.
As I grappled with the news of a slow-healing knee injury which shoved me off the school ski trip, the alternative became glaringly obvious; a road trip around, through, up and down Norfolk.
I really, really wanted to write this blog. I really wanted to highlight what a gorgeous place Norfolk is, how exciting it can be and why it should absolutely be considered a national prize. Norfolk has been doing slow living and staycations way before it became popular. I adore the place. I hope after reading the next couple of blogs, you become a little intrigued at the possibility of rambling through the eastern flanks of the UK.
First pit stop: Norwich – this city gets a blog of its own!
Norwich is renowned for being the ‘city of stories’ and sits snuggly in the centre of Norfolk. For 900 years, it has been a literary haven and in 2019 the council crowned it as such, recognising the birthplace of the first woman to write a book in English and for pioneering the first creative writing course at a university in the country. This ‘fine city’ is proud to be named so, and you can really tell. Charming street art around every corner explores the creativity of it’s inhabitants and expresses the city’s bookish history. Second hand book stores have taken over twisty shops that would have otherwise become fast food outlets, I am sure. The cobbled lanes are also home to an eclectic mix of independent brands – the high street is sure as heck not dead in Norwich. Sitting at the heart of the indie city is the open market. Although it has suffered from gentrification over the years, the street food stores are abundant and absolutely top notch. If you are lucky enough to find yourself in Norwich, see below my top 5 places to visit:
1. Kofra Coffee, Upper St Giles Street followed by a pastry from Bread and Source.
THIS. Kofra is always, without fail, my first stop in the city. I love coffee and I would argue that Kofra has the best in Norwich. The place is an independent coffee house with three stores across the city, born out of an act of love to serve the people of Norwich. Grab a cappuccino, sit outside on the pavement and enjoy the architecture of the buildings on St Giles street. Finish off with a pastry or slice of sourdough from next door – Bread and Source. An artisan bakery intrinsic to Norfolk that takes their job seriously. Highly recommend.
2. Visit Vintage.
I would wholeheartedly describe myself as a wandering soul, a little bit indie, a country music, surfer gal. Having moved to Surrey for an excellent job opportunity, I have to say I miss the diverse, hipster feel of Norwich. I love seeing women and men dressed in cord, flat peak caps and fleeces. You certainly can’t get a good range of vintage in Guildford. Therefore, if you pop to Norwich, be sure to check out the independent vintage stores that leave a trail through the city. You have the choice of high end stores stocking fairly expensive., but excellent quality, brands (Working Title, Dogfish, Elements), or finding some knick knacks in the vintage charity shops (Sue Ryder, Slavvy Vintage, Taxi Vintage). I must admit, I came away with two pairs of cargos and a fleece gillet… there is no escape once you enter!
3. Lunch at YALM.
Ok, you should absolutely browse the marketplace for the independent street food vendors. However, seeing as I am choosing my top 5, I felt the need to include YALM instead. The food hall is located above the Royal Arcade and hosts a small collection of local chefs and eateries. The décor is slightly 70s, with mushroom lamps popping up over the wooden tables and large circular orbs hanging from the ceiling. I reckon it would prove to be the perfect date spot, and I am all here for it. I especially enjoyed sitting at the window overlooking the arcade below. For some bizarre reason, the Stompers Shoe Store has kept a tight grip on a mechanical spinning monkey for the past 30 plus years and every small person that wandered past was entirely gripped for a good five minutes as they watched the fluffy thing flip over a pole. It was very entertaining. Order a meal, or a selection of goodies, from the nine chefs ranging from Asian to grilled foods to pizza and chat nonsense in the dim light of the mushroom lamp. A lovely way to catch up with old pals.
4. Norwich Cathedral.
I am a sucker for beautiful architecture, so I think the cathedral deserves a spot here. It is the most prominent landmark penetrating the skyline and the interior is just as impressive. Norwich Cathedral has the second largest cloisters in England; the council often utilises the space for cultural or historical exhibitions, such as the infamous Dippy the Dinosaur or a hanging moon (whatever you’re into..). Ethelbert Gate offers a historic access point to the cathedral grounds that occasionally play host to small coffee vans and space to enjoy a picnic within the confines of the historic walls. There is also a memorial to Edith Carvell, a nurse in the second world war who treated whoever came into contact with her, regardless of their country of origin. I do love the fact that Norwich notices the women of their history – big bonus points.
5. Dinner at Blue Joanna.
Shamefully, I have never been able to get a table here. But word through the grape vine is that this much loved, seemingly exclusive spot is to absolutely die for. The pan-Asian restaurant is located in the golden triangle of Norwich, just a stones throw away from the centre, and serves a dinner time menu Tuesday- Saturday. Dishes include smacked cucumber, Korean bbq chicken wings, spiced beetroot and crispy panko-style bananas. They also offer a select cocktail menu and the occasional live music band. This place gets BOOKED up! Be sure to ring in advance – like I said, I haven’t been able to secure a table yet. Alas, a reason to come back to the city of stories.
I honestly can’t big up Norwich enough. The place has managed to keep the high street busy and thriving, yet left its ancestry Tudor streets for inquisitive visitors to meander through. It has shone a significant spotlight on creativity, artisan brands and independent sustainable fashion, yet still been able to hold onto that small city vibe that all ages can admire and love. With pretty architecture and great coffee around every corner, what more could you possibly want? Make the trip to the unknown east – it is worth it, even just for Norwich.
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